Environmental and Conservation Articles

Pollen Distribution – How Plants are Pollinated

CFNews August/September, 2026, by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

We know that plants must be pollinated in order to reproduce. However, the method of pollen distribution varies depending on the plant. Each spring, we get a good idea of one method of pollen transfer when everything outdoors is covered in a greenish powder: sidewalks, lawn furniture, window sills, and our cars. And those of us with pollen allergies are well aware of when pollen is in the air.

Wind-pollinated trees are the culprits, releasing copious amounts of small, lightweight pollen into the wind. Wind-pollinated plants do not waste energy producing flowers with strong fragrances or nectar to attract pollinators. Instead, the focus is on efficient pollen production and dispersal that ensures pollen finding female flowers for successful fertilization. Releasing large amounts of pollen compensates for the randomness and inefficiency of wind dispersal. Trees that are wind-pollinated include oak, birch, walnut, hickory, elm, cottonwood, poplar, and cone-bearing trees: white pine, spruce, fir and cedar.

Grasses and weeds are also wind-pollinated. People often blame goldenrod for hay fever because it blooms at the exact same time as the real culprit, ragweed — an easy mistake since goldenrod’s bright yellow flowers are highly visible while allergy-causing ragweed flowers are quite inconspicuous. It is a fact that goldenrod is NOT the cause of hay feverIts flower’s pollen grains are far too heavy and sticky to be carried by the wind. The pollen does however, cling to animals (bees, flies, butterflies, etc.) who are reliable and efficient pollinators. Ragweed, on the other hand, relies on wind to carry its pollen, and releases millions of lightweight pollen grains that can drift in the breeze for miles, triggering allergies for millions of people every year. 

Self-pollination. Plants that self-pollinate have both male and female flowers. These plants include many vegetables such as beans, cabbage, and carrot, many stone fruit trees such peach, plum and cherry, and some native trees and shrubs. While these plants do not strictly require bees to reproduce, native bees that visit these flowers transfer pollen efficiently, which significantly improves yield and quality.

Animal pollination. About 75% of flowering plants rely on animals to transfer pollen. While foraging for nectar, bees, flies, butterflies, moths (night-shift pollinators), beetles, birds, and Western bats, pick up pollen grains on their bodies. The pollen dusts and fertilizes the next plant they visit. Because plants need animal pollinators to carry their pollen, they evolved specific characteristics — unique shapes, sizes and colors — to attract the pollinators who can most effectively pollinate them. Bees are our most successful pollinators because, unlike other animal pollinators, bees intentionally visit flowers to collect pollen for their offspring. Pollen is an essential source of protein and amino acids for developing bee larvae.

Protect Your Home Without Deadly Rodenticide Poisons

CFNews June/July, 2026, by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

No one likes the idea of rodents inside their home but it is important to realize that these Rodenticides (rat poisons) are doing more harm than good. Rodenticides are killing the very creatures meant to control rodents. And they are putting our pets and children at risk.

Photo, Jocelyn Anderson

I’m speaking about those black rodenticide bait boxes that seem to be everywhere. Sometimes they are disguised as rocks which is even more nefarious. With these boxes, the poisoned bait is eaten and the rodent goes on his way. The rodent might not succumb to the poison for up to 10 days. Meanwhile the rodent is a poison time-bomb. A predator such as a hawk, owl, or fox who eats the rodent will also become a victim. For them, there is no antidote. By the time a wild animal (or even a pet) is found, it is often too late to save them from an excruciating death from internal bleeding. These secondary poisonings of unintended victims are increasing at an alarming rate. Evidence is clear that rodenticides pose an unreasonable risk to wildlife, our pets and our children.

There are many options to consider before choosing poisons, from the simple snap-trap to ultrasonic deterrents. Top of the list is exclusion.

Exclusion – Most critical is keeping rodents from getting inside your home. Seal holes where rodents might enter such as openings around pipes and cable wires. A mouse can squeeze into spaces the size of a dime so closing entry points is most important. Sealing small openings can be an easy fix but a carpenter may be needed for larger repairs. There are also sanitation and exclusion providers that will evaluate and seal openings where rodents can enter your home.

Sanitation is important. Clutter around house foundations and outbuildings is rodent heaven. Removing items such as lumber, tarps, old tires, etc. makes you yard less hospitable for rodents.  Firewood should be kept away from the house. If you have bird feeders, bring the feeders in at night and clean up any seed litter. Only use rodent resistant dumpsters and trash receptacles and make sure they are securely closed, every time. Ground covers such as pachysandra, ivy, and vinca also harbor mice and should be trimmed away from buildings.

Make your yard unattractive to mice. The Japanese barberry-Lyme disease connection is well known. White-footed mice are highly susceptible to the bacterium that causes Lyme disease. They are the primary source of infection of black-legged ticks who, in turn, infect us with a bite. The barberry shrub provides safe shelter and moist conditions favorable to both mice and ticks. Managing barberry on your property can significantly reduce the abundance of mice and ticks and the risk of tick-related illness.

But what has this to do with mice inside our homes? Especially in the fall, white-footed mice are seeking shelter to escape freezing temperatures and to find food. Given the opportunity, they will nest in attics, basements, or crawl spaces. So, in addition to sealing openings and removing clutter, it makes sense to avoid planting barberry, a plant that mice favor.

Natural predators are key to rodent control. The use of rodenticides is counterproductive to controlling rodents. The poison kills the very animals that naturally regulate rodent populations. For example, A red tail hawk can eat 1,500 mice per year. Rodenticide poisons were never intended for preventative use where no proven infestation exists. And yet for many pest control companies, it is the first option they promote because plopping down a poison bait box(s) requires less effort and ensures a steady profit. In reality, killing rodent’s natural predators with poison results in rodent populations rebounding, ultimately increasing their numbers.

Before hiring a pest control company, find out if they employ an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. IPM is an environmentally sensitive, science-based approach to managing pests including rodents using a combination of biological, chemical, cultural, and physical tools to minimize risks to human health and the environment. Poisons should always be the last resort. A competent pest control company will first do an assessment to determine how mice are getting in and will seal openings to exclude them. Then mechanical controls such as snap-traps are used to eliminate unwelcomed guests that might still be inside.

On April 20th, Newtown passed a Rodenticide Policy for Municipal Properties. The first town in the state! We hope more towns will join us in passing rodenticide policies for the sake of our birds of prey and other wildlife. It is totally doable. Just two of us on our conservation commission took our policy to our Board of Selectman where it passed by unanimous vote. I encourage garden clubs to contact their conservation commissions, selectmen/mayors, and health departments about this serious issue. It is only by more towns taking action to pass policy, can we send a message to the state legislature that a meaningful and effective rodenticide bill needs to pass in the 2027 legislative session. For more information about how we got it done in Newtown, please contact me, hollyk325@yahoo.com.

 

Think Outside the Bait Box Program on April 4th

CFNews April - May 2026

As FGCCT Conservation chair, member of the Garden Club of Newtown and Newtown Conservation Commission chair, I am proud to announce that the Newtown is sponsoring a community event about deadly rodenticide poisons. The program, Think Outside the Bait Box will be on Saturday, April 4 from 2-4 pm at the Newtown Community Center, 8 Simpson Street, Newtown. The program is free and open to the public.

Newtown is moving forward on a Rodenticide Policy for Municipal Buildings initiated by our Conservation Commission with support from town departments and the public. We believe the policy will be adopted this spring. We hope that other towns will follow our lead in protecting wildlife, pets and children by adopting policies in their own towns with the goal of sending the message to Hartford that CT needs to ban the use of rodenticides altogether.

Many of us are just learning about the dangers of second-generation rodenticide anticoagulant rodenticides (SGAR’s) even though these black bait boxes seem to be everywhere we look. Pest control companies put these bait boxes in and outside of homes and businesses. Most people don’t realize the harm these poisons are causing. Internal bleeding caused by rodenticides are a horrific and inhumane way for any animal to die. And it doesn’t stop with the initial poisoned animal. Secondary poisoning of unintended victims results when a bird, owl, hawk, eagle or fox eats a poisoned rodent. By the time an animal is found, it is usually too late to save it and the animal must be euthanized. Many rodenticide poisonings have been documented in pets and children as well.

The April 4 program will feature several educators who will address the issues and provide information on practical and reliable solutions for rodent control. We are pleased to have experts, Nicole Rivard, Friends for Animals, Dr. James Lombella, President CT for Animals, and Joshua Levin, CT Votes for Animals and Christine Cummings from a Place Called Hope rehabilitation facility in Canton. Christine is bringing ambassador Koso, an adorable Eastern screech owl and miraculous survivor of rodenticide poisoning. Our panel will talk about what garden clubs, commissions and the public can do to protect wildlife, our pets and out children. Please spread the word to family, friends and neighbors. All are welcome. Preregistration is appreciated. dawn.fried@newtown-ct.gov.

What’s Growing Around Your Yard?

CFNews February - March 2026

by Holly Kocet, FGCCT Conservation Chair and member, Garden Club of Newtown

Do you know what plants are growing on your property? Chances are there are non-native invasive plants along borders and in wooded areas. Invasive plants are aggressive exotic plants that were introduced either intentionally for ornamental purposes or accidentally as hitchhikers on other plants or products. Invasives thrive in a variety of growing conditions with no natural enemies to control their rapid spread as would occur in their own place of origin.

The environmental costs of invasive plants are high. Many invasive plants change soil chemistry, making it unsuitable for other plants to survive.

Japanese barberry photos credit: Dr. Jeffrey Ward, CAES.

Invasive vines smother and strangle important trees and shrubs. Still others are aggressive spreaders that create monocultures in our woodlands to outcompete and displace native vegetation. These are the ways invasives are disruptive to the environment, reducing biological diversity and altering the way plants, animals, soil, and water interact within native ecosystems, and are a serious threat to endangered plant and animal species.

Invasive plants can also be a threat to human health. Japanese barberry is a spiny shrub that blooms in spring with bright red berries that develop

in late summer and persist into winter. Common in home and commercial landscapes, barberry has escaped cultivation and now grows wildly throughout CT’s woodlands, creating dense thickets that prevent native trees and wild flowers from regenerating. Barberry also poses a risk to human health. A study conducted by the CT Agricultural Experiment Station – Williams, et al 2017 – revealed a frightening discovery. Barberry-infested forests had a significantly higher abundance of ticks, the causal agent responsible for Lyme disease, than in forests free of barberry. The study concluded that managing barberry can significantly reduce the abundance of ticks and the risk of tick-related illness.

The most important thing one can do to control invasives is not to plant them. While Japanese barberry, burning bush, and other invasives are still sold, there are many excellent native alternatives. Second, it is important to take action as soon as an invasive is identified in your yard. Once established, many invasives can be difficult to remove.

The approach used for controlling invasive plants depends on the species and how large the infestation. Early detection is important.

Oriental bittersweet photo credit: David L. Clement, Univ. of MD

Invasive plants including barberry and burning bush leaf out earlier than our native species and are easy to spot in early spring in wooded areas and along edges. Small plants can be easily managed by pulling or digging when the ground is moist, making sure to remove the entire root. Larger stems can be cut and chemically treated. Refer to the Invasive Plant Management Calendar published by the CT Invasive Plant Working Group (CIPWG) for information on chemical control of invasives.

You needn’t wait until spring. According to the Penn State Extension, winter is a perfect time to tackle invasives. Vines like oriental bittersweet are easy to see on naked trees. Jackets and gloves protect you from the thorns of barberry and multiflora rose. And while ticks are present in leaf litter year-round, they are less active in colder months. Vines should be cut about 12 inches off the ground and as far up as you can safely reach. The remaining stump can be painted with a

herbicide immediately after cutting or repeatedly cut. But resist the urge to pull remaining vines so not to damage tree branches. Shrubs like barberry,

Japanese barberry photos credit: Dr. Jeffrey Ward, CAES

multiflora rose, autumn olive and burning bush can be cut back so that there is less to do in the spring/summer.  Shrub stumps should be cut 6 inches above the ground and quickly painted with a herbicide.

Disposal of invasive plants is an important consideration and depends on the invasive and timing of removal. Barberry, without mature berries/seeds, can be placed in a brush pile. If mature berries are present, plants should be placed in a designated area where they can be monitored for reseeding or can be bagged for incineration. Invasives with berries or seeds should never be placed in a compost or brush pile.

 

What Can We Do About Second Generation Anticoagulant Rodenticides?

CFNews December/January, 2025, by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

From an environmental perspective, the 2025 legislative session was a disappointment. State legislation fell short of protecting wildlife from the inhumane poisoning from rodenticides.

While The Environment, Climate, and Sustainable Planning bill (SB-9-AAC) passed both legislative chambers, it is decidedly a huge setback for meaningful legislation of Second Generation Anticoagulant Rodenticides (SGARs). The bill classifies SGARs as “restricted use,” which prohibits access by the general public while allowing certified pesticide applicators to apply them. Legislators somehow missed the point that these poisons are just not safe. And, this legislation reinforces the idea that SGARs are acceptable if applied by a licensed professional, despite the fact that these poisons will still kill non-target species whose main diet consists of rodents.

Screech Owl Bugwood.org

Second Generation Anticoagulant Rodenticides are very powerful poisons used in bait boxes that are placed around buildings. These bait boxes don’t eliminate rodent populations because the bait is meant to attract rodents. Rodents also readily move into a vacated area.

At risk for secondary poisoning are many raptors, including owls, hawks, and eagles. Ospreys and falcons, on occasion, also supplement their diet with mice. So too will fox, coyotes, and bobcats.

SGARs can remain in an animal’s tissues for months. The poisoned rodent does not die instantly and continues to eat more and more poison. Sickened and sluggish, it becomes an easy meal for an owl or hawk who also ingests the poison. Christine Cummings, rehabilitator at A Place Called Hope in Killingworth, will tell you that secondary poisoning for these animals is irreversible. It is hard to hear but birds brought to the clinic that test positive for SGARs poisoning have no hope and must be euthanized to stop their suffering.

Fox

Reports of unintentional secondary poisonings from SGARS are increasing. Poison victims also include dogs and cats, and even children.

All of this is so unnecessary with so many viable alternatives available. Many rodent issues can be eliminated with proper sanitation, physical barriers, and humane mechanical traps. Recent studies show fertility control products (Contrapest and Good Bites) are effective for rodent control when used in combination with other humane methods and very affordable. For more information on “thinking outside of the bait box,” go to www.ctforanimals.org.

Garden Clubs and individuals can and should take the lead on pushing for legislation to ban rodenticides. It is extremely important for us to contact our local representatives; otherwise, they don’t know it’s an issue of concern. But if they hear strong opposition to rodenticides, they will move to support stronger legislation.  Please contact your local state legislators. A simple note or phone call is all that is needed for them to take up this very important cause. To find your representative, go to: https://www.cga.ct.gov/asp/menu/cgafindleg.asp

Let’s Celebrate Our Native Bees

CFNews October/November, 2025, by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

Did you know that there are about 340 species of native (indigenous) bees in Connecticut? It’s true, and they pollinate 80% of our native plants, trees and shrubs. The bumble bee is most recognizable and is our only truly social bee who creates a small hive. Other native bees are solitary in nature and have no

Bumble Bee, Josheph Berger

hive to defend. Most dig hatcheries in the ground while others utilize hollow stems and pre-existing tunnels in trees. Bumble bees and solitary bees are not aggressive. Unlike yellow-jackets and other wasps, native bees simply go about their business of collecting pollen.

Native bees are our most important and successful pollinators. While other pollinators (butterflies, beetles, flies) visit flowers solely for nectar, native bees intentionally visit flowers to collect pollen for their offspring. Tucked under hairy bellies or in pollen “baskets” on their legs, these adaptations make native bees better pollinators. When they are foraging, pollen-covered hairs brush against flowers and pollination ensues. Unlike our native bees, honey bees groom themselves to make a pollen-nectar paste for carrying back to their hive. It is this neatness that makes them less efficient at pollination than native bees.

Beekeeping is not bee conservation.  Not indigenous to North America, honey bees were introduced by European colonists in the 17th century. Today, honey bees are important for large-scale agriculture. Considered domesticated livestock, they are sheltered and cared for by beekeepers. While there have been hive losses, honey bees are not at risk of extinction. It is estimated that there are more honey bees now than at any time in history. In contrast, many bee species native to North America are endangered and at risk of extinction. This is primarily due to loss of habitat with floral resources for food and natural areas for shelter and nesting.  The better approach to pollinator conservation is to focus on providing natural and pesticide-free habitat.

Native bees are very important to agriculture. As major pollinators of tree fruits, berries and vegetables, native bees add an estimated $3 billion worth of crops annually to the U.S. economy. Native bees are more resilient and tolerant of cold and wet weather than honey bees. And according to The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, flowers pollinated by native bees will have larger and higher quality fruit.

Bumble bees have the ability to “buzz pollinate” to shake pollen loose. They are highly effective pollinators of plants in the Solanaceae family that includes tomato, pepper, eggplant and potato. They are also important pollinators of blueberry cranberry, and raspberry plants. Squash bees are pollen “specialist”

Squash Bee, Susan Ellis

pollinators of plants in the Cucurbit family, pollinating squash, cucumber, melon and pumpkin. Fast-flying mason bees are efficient pollinators of fruit and nut trees: apple, cherry, plum, peach, pear and almond. It takes 40,000 honey bees to pollinate one acre of apples as efficiently as 250 orchard mason bees. The Eastern carpenter bee, also a buzz pollinator, is an efficient pollinator of many flowers and vegetables. Other solitary bee species, small and tiny in size, are important pollinators of many plants, trees and shrubs. They include cellophane, mining, sweat, and leafcutter bees.

Native bees emerge at different times throughout the growing season. While most are “generalist” pollinators, every bee species includes some “specialist” pollinators who require specific flower pollen to feed their young. Providing native plants that attract specialists benefits all native bees and other pollinators. For a list of plants that benefit specialist bees and plants for seasonal bloom, go to Xerces.org and search: Pollinator-Friendly Native Plant Lists.

The resilience of our environment and our very existence depends on our native bees and the pollination services they provide. The best way to help all pollinators is by planting a diversity of native plants for continuous bloom throughout the entire growing season and by preserving natural areas for nesting and shelter. This is the focus of the FGCCT President Nan Merolla’s Theme and Project, Bee Resilient – Garden for Nature.  Plant Happy Habitats, I couldn’t agree more.

Welcome News from the CT Invasive Plant Working Group

CFNews August/September 2025, by Holly Kocet

On June 26th, Alyssa Siegel-Miles of the CT Invasive Plant Working Group (CIPWG), notified its members that legislation passed to prohibit from sale several more of the most readily available and environmentally destructive invasive plants. The new legislation is additional to plants banned in October 2024 that included Mugwort, Porcelainberry and Wisteria. This action corroborates what we invasive warriors already know to be true: invasive plants are out of control!

While the Invasive Plant Council (IPC)* voted in October to phase out these additional plants, we never dared to hope for legislation so soon. Their decision was based on the CIPWG subcommittee’s evaluation of plants already listed on the CT Invasive Plant List but not yet prohibited from sale. No longer could the devastating impact these plants have on our properties, parks and open spaces be ignored. The IPC submitted their recommendations in their annual report to the Environmental Committee (EC) which prompted the EC to submit a bill, HB 5013 to the legislature. Passing through the house and senate and signed by the governor, Public Act 25-126 is now law which prohibits the sale of following species. The majority however, will be banned only after a designated phase-out period.

Star of Bethlehem
photo bugwood.org

Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum) is immediately prohibited from sale. This plant is an aggressive spreader that not only displaces garden plants but has escaped cultivation. Without any economic value, the EC did not believe a phase out period was warranted.

Winged Euonymus, Burning Bush, Euonymus alatus
photo bugwood.org

A three-year phase out period will apply for several invasives, which will not prohibited from sale until October 1, 2028. They include: Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii), Winged Euonymous A.K.A. Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus), Glossy Buckthorn (Frangula alnus), European Buckthorn, Common Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica), Reed Canary Grass (Phalaris arundinacea), European Privet (Ligustrum vulgare), Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), and Miscanthus Silvergrass (Miscanthus sinensis).

Miscanthus Silvergrass, Miscanthus sinensis
photo bugwood.org

Norway Maple, Acer Acer platanoides L
photo bugwood.org

A five-year phase out period will apply to Norway Maple (Acer planatoides). Unfortunately, this tree will not be prohibited from sale until October 1, 2030, despite the fact that it already dominates our landscapes, is susceptible to diseases and pests, and seriously disrupts ecosystems.

While I applaud the actions by all stakeholders for banning these plants, it is unfortunate that these invasives will continue to infiltrate our landscapes during the phase out period(s) despite the IPC’s assertion that these plants are a detriment to the environment. Moreover, there is an abundance of plants that nurseries and garden centers could sell as alternatives to these invasives. I wish the bill could have included funds that would compensate growers for their investment, thereby taking invasive plants off the market instead of allowing a phase out period.

It is my hope that homeowners and landscapers will make a judicious effort to avoid purchasing any of these plants during the phase out periods. Our landscapes deserve so much better. For now, invasive warriors, let’s take the victory.

* The Invasive Plants Council (IPC) is the state-mandated body for updating invasive species legislation.

CT Pesticide Reform Coalition Targets Neonicotinoids

CFNews April/May 2025, by Holly Kocet

The CT Pesticide Reform Coalition was formed to petition the Environmental Committee to enact a bill for reducing the use of pesticides and especially Neonicotinoids (Neonics). Coalition members represent several environmental organizations including the Pollinator Pathway, the Xerces Society of for Invertebrate Conservation, Connecticut Audubon, the Sierra Club, Rivers Alliance, Beyond Pesticides, ABC Birds, Save the Sound, Protect Our Pollinators and many more. The Coalition has spent the good part of a year developing language for a bill that would survive the legislative process. With the help of an attorney for Vermont’s Conservation Lawn Foundation and an experienced legislative lobbyist, HB-6916 was introduced on February 10, 2025.

Such legislation is critical when you consider that neonics are up to 7000 times more toxic to bees than DDT (banned in 1972), according to the Xerces Society. These systemic chemicals are present in all parts of the plant, from roots to leaves and especially flower pollen and nectar and even contaminate the soil. And as bees are necessary for pollinating 80% of flowering plants and many agricultural crops we rely on for food, neonics must be restricted … and completely banned for cosmetic purposes.

Neonics are also used to coat agricultural seed – corn, wheat and soybean, despite the fact that neonic-coated seed provides little or no economic benefit to farmers. In CT, we don’t grow a lot of wheat or soybean but we do grow corn. And the majority of corn kernels available to farmers are a neonic-coated. The Connecticut Audubon Society reports that North America has lost 3 billion birds over the past 50 years and pesticides are a major contributor. Coated seed is devastating to birds, just one neonic-coated kernel is enough to kill a songbird. A 2023 study by the EPA determined that neonics are a serious threat to endangered species. Because neonics are neurotoxins, they cause birds to become disoriented which inhibits both migration and reproduction. And last June, The New York Times reported on a study linking neonics to the decline of monarch butterflies as well.

The hearing for the neonic bill was held on February 19th. Over 800 residents submitted written testimony in support of the bill which has also received strong partisan support. So, fingers crossed that soon, golf courses, neighbor’s lawns, playing fields, plants sold, state and municipal properties, and farmers fields will be free of these harmful neurotoxic chemicals.

Best Ways to Help Birds in Winter

CFNews February/March 2025, by Holly Kocet

The winter months are hard-living for birds. Weather can be frigid and food scarce. Birds do have special adaptations for surviving in cold climates. Like us, they shiver to stay warm but birds have much higher metabolisms and burn more energy to stay warm. Feathers play an important role in providing insulation from the cold. Birds preen top feathers to make them water-resistant and fluff up inner feathers to keep them toasty and warm.

Small birds like bluebirds cuddle for warmth.

Bluebirds cuddling for warmth
Photo credit: creativecommons.org

They crowd together in evergreens, shrubs and vines to share body heat. They can also slow down their metabolism to conserve energy. Larger birds are also known to flock together in this way. Cavity nesters like nuthatches, titmice and downy woodpeckers’ shelter in tree cavities for warmth, protecting them from both weather and predators.

Still, studies show that birds like chickadees who have access to bird feeders do better than ones without, especially in extreme cold. Insects and plant sources are in short supply and finding food is a challenge for resident birds as well as those that traveled down from the arctic.

During the frosty season, especially like one we’re experiencing this January, it is important to provide birds with good quality high-energy foods. A great choice is suet, a source of fat that helps birds stay warm during the day and ensures their survival during long, cold nights. Birds that enjoy suet include chickadees, juncos, jays and redpolls. Downy, hairy, and red-bellied woodpeckers find suet feeders with wooden tail props easier to navigate. Other high-energy foods include unsalted peanuts, black oil sunflower and mealworms, a favorite of bluebirds. Finches, including goldfinches (hardly recognizable without their summer plumage), pine siskins and redpolls, absolutely love feeders filled with Niger seed.

Juncos and doves will visit feeders but mostly prefer to feed on the ground. When necessary, clearing a patch of snow to scatter some seed is helpful. This can be messy so frequent cleanup is recommended to prevent unwanted visitors. Using a tray or platform feeder is a less messy option.

It is really important to store seed in a dry place so it does not get damp. The best feeders are those that protect the food from the elements. Tube feeders and those with a roof or dome are best because when exposed to moisture, seeds have the potential for growing mold that can make birds sick. Bird feeders must also be cleaned regularly to prevent disease. This cannot be emphasized enough.

It is helpful to know what times of day to make food available for birds. On really cold winter nights, birds use up a lot of their energy reserves trying to stay warm so, at first light they quickly start searching for something to eat. Making sure feeders are full in the morning is extremely helpful. In late afternoon, about an hour or two before sunset, topping off the feeders gives birds that extra energy boost needed to survive frigid nights.

Of course, we still want to plant native seed, fruit and nut bearing trees and shrubs for our birds. Crabapple, dogwood, chokeberry, winterberry, oak and hazel are excellent choices and make beautiful additions to a yard. Having the right trees can also offer protection and shelter. Evergreens such as native spruce and pine are good choices since they provide cover all year long and especially in winter.

There are other ways of providing shelter for birds. If space allows, we can create a brush pile shelter. The National Audubon Society’s How to Build a Brush Pile for Birds are simple steps:  How to Build a Brush Pile for Birds | Audubon

It is also helpful to put up a roosting box for winter birds. The box has an entry hole at the bottom to keep the cold weather out and trap more heat inside. Bluebirds, chickadees, nuthatches, wrens and others will use these boxes for shelter.

Common Redpoll, a northern visitor
Photo credit: Cornell Lab, projectfeederwatch.org

Nesting boxes from the previous summer can also be used and are more beneficial if the box door can be flipped so the entry hole is at the bottom (like a roosting box) and any ventilation holes are covered to keep cold out.

As mentioned earlier, birds do have adaptations to survive the cold but if we can do some things to make their lives easier, it helps ensure their survival. Once the weather moderates and natural food sources become available, it will no longer be necessary to hang out our feeders and we can finally concentrate on our gardens.

CT Invasive Plants Council bans Invasives

CFNews December 2024 - January 2025, by Holly Kocet

Not since 2005 has the CT Invasive Plants Council (IPC) moved to ban a single plant previously determined by scientific evaluation to be invasive. Beginning October 1, 2024, two plants, Porcelainberry and Mugwort, already on the CT Invasive Plant List but without restriction, were finally prohibited by state statute from importation, movement, sale, purchase, transplanting, cultivation and distribution.

Porcelainberry – Ampelopsis brevipedunculata

Porcelainberry (Ampelopsis brevipedunculata) is a vigorous climbing vine that blankets shrubs and small trees, blocking sunlight to weaken and kill them. Prolific seeds are spread by birds and mammals.

Mugwort – Artemisia Vulgaris

Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) is a herbaceous perennial that spreads primarily by aggressive rhizomes to form mono-specific stands anywhere soil is disturbed.

Five (5) new additions to the CT Invasive Plant List all meet specific criteria for banning these plants.

Japanese-angelica-tree

They include Japanese Angelica tree (Aralia elata), a suckering and self-seeder that creates dense thickets; Chinese and Japanese Wisteria

Chinese-wisteria

(Wisteria sinensis and floribunda), with twining vines that cover and girdle shrubs and trees and stems that root wherever nodes touch the ground; and Quackgrass

Quackgrass -Elymus repens (L.) Gould

(Elymus repens), which is spread by rhizomes and also releases chemicals that inhibit other plant growth.

Finally, Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana) has also been added to the List. With a 3-year phase out period, it will not be banned from sale until 2027. One could guess that the reason is to allow nursery stock to be depleted. Meanwhile, this tree will continue to escape cultivation and spread into natural areas.

Callery-pear – Pyrus calleryana

(All photos courtesy of CT Invasive Plant Working Group, CIPWG)

While banning these seven species is a very positive development, it has taken far too long. The years have seen these plants and others take a foothold along our streets, woodland borders, meadows, fields and forests. Glance into any woodland in fall and see a monoculture of muted-pink Winged Euonymus, aka Burning Bush. And in spring, Burning Bush, Japanese Barberry and Multiflora Rose are noticeably green along roadsides and woodland edges. Invasive plants typically leaf out earlier and hold leaves longer than native plants, giving them a huge competitive advantage over our native species.

Clearly, these new additions to the List don’t go far enough in banning plants known to be detrimental to the environment and human health. Three (3) years of Annual Reports are evidence of the IPC’s knowledge and concern, reacting at a snail’s pace while invasives continued to spread unchecked.

2021 Annual Report – two invasives of serious concern

  • Porcelainberry is now of significant concern and since no longer of economic importance to the commercial plant industry, the Council recommends that porcelainberry be placed on the prohibited list.
  • Council notes concern for the invasive Barberry-deer tick-Lyme disease relationship and its impact on public health. (No recommendation given).

2022 Annual Report – two more invasives wreaking havoc

  • Council notes increasing spread of Callery Pear and Akebia vine (Akebia quinata) into terrestrial

habitats. (No recommendation given).

2023 Annual Report (December) – Council finally takes action

IPC strongly urges the Environmental Committee to take immediate action to approve and adopt these recommendations:

  • Designate Porcelainberry and Mugwort as “prohibited from sale”.
  • Add Callery Pear to the invasive plant list with a 3-year phase out period.
  • Add Quackgrass and Japanese Angelica tree to the invasive plant list with no phase out period.
  • Add Japanese and Chinese Wisteria to the invasive plant list with no phase out period.

As previously mentioned, the Environmental Committee did take notice and approved the IPC’s recommendation to ban these plants. However, the effective date for the ban would take another ten (10) months to implement. All but Callery Pear were banned effective October 1, 2024.

Reason for Optimism

The IPC’s draft minutes of October 16, 2024, give reason to hope that plants on the List and known to be invasive, yet still sold to unsuspecting consumers, will someday be off the market. Council members voted in favor of a 3-year phase out period for several plants including Glossy and European Buckhorn, Reed Canary Grass, Winged Euonymus, European Privet, Black Locust, Miscanthus, and Japanese Barberry with possible allowance for sterile cultivars. Norway Maple, a popular but extremely invasive tree that continues to invade our woodlands, also got the Council’s vote for a 5-year phase out with possible allowance for sterile cultivars.

As long as invasives are sold and planted, they will continue to infiltrate our woodlands and wild places and create monocultures that outcompete our native plants and trees, which are vital to local ecosystems on which all life depends. So it is encouraging to see that the Invasive Plants Council is now actively taking steps to remove plants from sale that are known to escape cultivation. Each one of us can help by letting our state representatives know how invasives are impacting our properties, our parks and our towns. Ask your representatives to notify the CT Environmental Committee of these concerns. To find and contact your representatives, go to: www.cga.ct.gov and click on representation menu.

Not All Trees Are Created Equal

CFNews October 2024 - November 2024, by Holly Kocet

When choosing trees for your property, the decision between native and non-native trees should not be taken lightly. The true value of a tree is for the vital role it plays in maintaining ecological balance, not solely as a decorative element in the landscape. Because native trees naturally occur in a specific geographic region or ecoregion, they are well-suited to the local climate and soils. And, having co-evolved with our native fauna, this relationship is critical. According to a study by Burghardt et al, 2010, properties landscaped with native plants support significantly more caterpillars and birds than properties dominated by non-native vegetation.

Keystone Plants

Native trees and plants with the highest value for supporting pollinators, birds and other wildlife are considered “keystone plants.” Just as the keystone of an archway holds all the other stones in place to secure the structure’s integrity, keystone plants are critical to the food web and in maintaining healthy communities. For many wildlife species, keystone plants are absolutely essential for completing their life cycles.

There are two types of keystone plants: (1) those plants needed to feed butterfly and moth caterpillars and (2) plants that provide for specialist bees, whose young require specific flower pollen. These plants, whether supporting caterpillars or specialist bees, are often referred to as “host plants.”

Here in the Northeast, we have an abundance of trees native to our region. While all natives are important for providing natural sources of food, shelter and nesting sites, keystone plants have specialized relationships with animal pollinators who are discerning about their food choices. Some plants provide for both caterpillars and bees and are particularly beneficial. When planting to support pollinators, birds and other wildlife, researchers recommend adding keystone plants to your landscape.

Entomologist Dr. Doug Tallamy and his research team at the University of Delaware have ranked trees for their ability to support butterfly and moth caterpillars. Topping the list for supporting caterpillars are our native oaks that host 534 caterpillar species, including Hairstreak butterflies. Willows and cherries come in at a close second, hosting over 450 species, including caterpillars of such butterflies as the Mourning Cloak, Viceroy and Eastern Tiger Swallowtail. Moths are often undervalued for the beneficial roles they play. They are an important food source for many wildlife species and especially birds, both as adults and as caterpillars. This is likely the reason moth populations far outnumber butterflies. Baby birds are fed caterpillars almost exclusively because they are easily digestible and nutritious. It should also be noted that moths are pollinators of the “night shift” for many plants with light-colored and fragrant flowers, such as primrose.

Work by Pollinator Conservationist Jarrod Fowler has focused on pollen specialist bees and the key plants that support them. These bees develop over time from egg to adult and their emergence coincides with a plant’s bloom. Early emerging bee specialists include Cellophane and Mining bees, who emerge in spring and seek out dogwood, maple, and willows as well as woodland flowers. While specialist bee populations are small, every bee species includes specialists who seek out specific plant pollen in order to feed their young. And while many trees such as Oak, Birch and Walnut are wind-pollinated and don’t require animal pollination for reproduction, they do attract bees interested in collecting their pollen for provisioning brood cells.

“We are replacing native plants with [non-native] alien species at an alarming rate, especially in the suburban garden on which our wildlife increasingly depends.” – Douglas J. Tallamy, Bringing Nature Home

 

 

 

 

Many Introduced Trees are Harmful to Native Plants and Animals 

Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) is simply the worst tree one could choose to plant. Scientific evidence shows that this tree is undermining the health of regional forests. Norway maple leafs out earlier than our native maples, giving it a huge competitive advantage for light, water and nutrients. Large abundant seeds are easily spread by wind and willingly sprout in both sun and shade. Roots produce toxic chemicals that prohibit understory plant growth, especially for spring ephemerals. Norway maple does not support insect or bird populations and is not part of the food web. Invasive qualities, along with excessive use in our landscapes, make Norway maple a significant threat to Northeastern woodlands. Alternatives include native Maple, Oak, Elm, Tulip tree and Sweetgum.

Callery or Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana) is another overly-planted tree that escapes landscapes and invades natural places and disturbed areas. It is often chosen for its uniform look with tight upturned branches. However, this characteristic form is a weakness of the species, making it susceptible to wind and weather damage. White blossoms in early spring are very short-lived and also emit an unpleasant odor. Callery Pear escapes cultivation to creates dense thickets. In this way, it prevents establishment of native woodland vegetation. It does not support wildlife. Good alternatives include our native Alternate-leaved and Flowering Dogwoods, Redbud, and Shadbush. Callery Pear will be banned from sale in CT in October 2027.

Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa) is often recommended as an alternative to Flowering Dogwood for its disease resistance. How ironic that the Kousa Dogwood, indigenous to Asia, is likely responsible for bringing the anthracnose (fungus), which has attacked our native dogwoods, to America. Kousa is known to harbor the fungus without any visible signs. Genetic research suggests the pathogen is a 20th century introduction with pattern of spread originating from our east and west coast seaports. No small coincidence that the timing of fungus’ appearance corresponds to the arrival of the Asian Kousa dogwood in America.

While Kousa berries are too large for most birds to swallow, our native dogwoods provide nutritious berries for many songbirds. A few birds can tolerate Kousa’s large fruits, which accounts for spread into natural areas. Many beautiful native trees, including Hawthorn and Sweetbay Magnolia, do provide for wildlife and are good alternatives.

Purple-Osier Willow (Salix purpurea) was originally planted along streams for erosion control but falls short in its support of terrestrial and aquatic food webs. Conversely, our native willows are host plants for butterflies such as Viceroy, Mourning Cloak and over four hundred additional species. Weeping Willow (Salix x penduline/Salix sepulcralis), while not a highly aggressive plant limited to moist areas, it has invaded wet meadows and roadsides in several states. Native alternatives are Black Willow, Pussy Willow and Shining Willow.

There is little doubt among scientists and conservationists that the choices we make in our landscapes affect local ecosystems and our overall environment. More important than ever, landscapes must be multi-functional. They can allow for artistic expression and be a source of natural beauty while providing for wildlife. Butterflies and moth caterpillars and specialist bee populations are most at risk because of their dependence on particular (host) plant(s) for their survival. Keystone plants are essential for supporting these “specialists.” We need to rethink the necessity of planting introduced ornamental trees not only because they fail to support pollinators, birds and other wildlife in our landscapes, but because many of them continue to invade our forests and woodlands, destroying the native flora on which wildlife depends. Clearly, not all trees are created equal.

Naturalized but Not Native

CFNews June/July 2024 - by Holly Kocet

Recently I was asked the ongoing question: “When does an introduced plant become native?” Often people do equate a plant’s ability to naturalize in a particular region with it “becoming native.” After all, many introduced plants have been in this country for many years and are well established. But have they been here long enough to develop complex and essential relationships with our pollinators, birds and other wildlife?

Professor Doug Tallamy believes “Native” is not a label earned by a plant after a given period of time. Instead, the term describes its function: “A plant should be considered a native when it acts like a native — that is, when it has achieved the same ecological productivity that it had in its evolutionary homeland.”

Naturalized yes, but not native if a plant hasn’t formed a symbiotic relationship with native wildlife. Time duration is only relevant to point out that this evolutionary process occurred over hundreds of thousands of years.

The accepted requirement for a native plant is that it occurred naturally in a particular region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. This could be called into question when you consider that indigenous peoples did travel and trade items with neighboring tribes. How else would one explain that corn found its way to the Northeast from southern Mexico prior to European arrival?

All plants are native somewhere so one must be careful to designate a plant’s origin. Is it native to North America or just the Northeast? Some species planted here have been introduced from the South and do quite well but I do not believe they are considered native to the Northeast. Some of our New England plants are grown in Midwest nurseries, but many experts believe it’s best to plant natives grown in our region. North America has designated ecoregions that define where plants live and thrive. A warming climate is already modifying these areas. However, locally sourced plants are still considered best for our soils and climate.

It is also generally accepted that a plant is native if it was in our region prior to the arrival of European colonization. We know of many plants that indigenous peoples used for food, remedies and other useful items, and that they shared their knowledge with European colonists.

Sugar Maple – Acer saccharum

For example, maple trees helped sustain indigenous peoples for thousands of years prior to European arrival. During hard winters when food was scarce, they would chew inner strips of maple bark as a source of energy. Eventually, they refined their sugaring technique, collecting and boiling down the sap. Upon arrival, European settlers learned maple sugaring from these native peoples.

So, the origin of our native maples is without question but what of other plants, trees and shrubs? It turns out that specimens, seeds and drawings of the new world plants were taken back to Europe by early explorers for many years and they were well documented in botanical studies.

It’s not so much the question of what is native as to what is not native. The science of paleobotany is the study and comparison of modern plants with fossil records to determine which plants are native to an area.

Queen Anne’s Lace – Daucus carota

There is also plenty of documentation for dozens and dozens of plants brought here from Europe and other parts of the world. Queen Anne’s Lace is an example of a plant that has naturalized in New England and across the country. Also known as wild carrot, it was introduced to America from Europe as a medicinal herb in the 1600s.

People have the ability to move plants over great distances very quickly. Otherwise, plants would migrate more slowly, limited by wind or animals that carry their seeds and by geographic barriers such as mountain ranges and large bodies of water. Quick movement of plants is best illustrated by the sheer number of invasive plants introduced from Europe and Asia that are plaguing our landscapes, parks and wild places — barberry, burning bush, mugwort, oriental bittersweet, knotweed, and the rest. Without the natural controls that keep them in check in their own country of origin, they are wiping out our native flora. These are introduced plants that have been here for some time and so they have naturalized. Will they every be considered native to New England? Let’s check back in a thousand years or so.

For the Love of Birds

by Holly Kocet, The Garden Club of Newtown, FGCCT Environmental & Conservation Co-Chair

The arrival of spring brings a flurry of activity with birds returning to join our winter birds in preparation for a new breeding season. Here are few things to keep in mind to help our avian friends:

  1. Lights Out for Bird Migration – April 1 thru May 31. Most migratory birds travel over Connecticut at night because temperatures are cooler and winds less turbulent. They rely on dark skies, navigating by the moon and stars. Artificial lighting attracts and disorients birds which leads

    Night Sky

    to collisions with windows and other reflective materials. According to Menunkatuck Audubon, “the result is catastrophic: Almost 1 billion birds are killed in the United States every year.”

This spring, we can help prevent fatal collisions of returning migratory birds by flipping off the lights between the hours of 11 p.m. and 6 a.m. LightsOutCT.org suggests the following:

  • Turn off all unnecessary outdoor and decorative lighting.
  • Extinguish spot and flood lights.
  • Down-shield exterior lights so they don’t spill over to areas not needed.
  • Install motion detectors and timers to control lights.
  • Reduce blue (cool) lights harmful to many animal species.
  • Turn off nonessential interior lighting, especially on upper floors.
  • When working at night, keep indoor light indoors, draw shades and drapes.

Minimizing outdoor lighting also preserves moths. Both adult moths and caterpillars are a large part of a birds’ diet.  Moths attracted to lights become exhausted and perish during the night.

  1. Cats need to Stay Indoors. It is estimated that cats kill hundreds of millions of birds every year. While cats are just doing what comes naturally, we humans can prevent this needless killing.

It is a myth that cats are not truly happy unless they can go outdoors. I’ve heard it said that outdoor stimulation prevents destructive behavior like scratching furniture. In fact, this destructive behavior is more an indicator of an underlying issue. Consulting with a veterinarian can be helpful. Often something as simple as adding a scratching post or playscape solves the problem.

Another myth is that if a cat has always been allowed outdoors, transitioning to indoors is impossible. Nothing can be further from the truth. Feral cats aside, outdoor cats can make this transition and they are healthier for it. Fluffer-nutter, a female longhair, was abandoned and living in an outbuilding for several years at my husband’s place employment. When it became possible, she was captured, taken to the Vet for a well visit and brought home. After only a few months, Fluffer-nutter settled in to her comfy new surroundings with absolutely no interest in going outdoors. This story has been repeated since with other rescues, both male and female.

And, indoor cats are healthier and safer. Allowing them to roam increases their risk of contracting an infectious disease, picking up fleas and ticks, and non-targeted poisoning. Other potential risks include cars and predators such as dogs and coyotes. The chore of cleaning a litterbox is a small price to pay for the peace of mind that our pet is safe while preventing the needless slaughter of innocent songbirds.

  1. Birds must have Indigenous Plants. Local natives provide the very best food, shelter and nesting sites that birds need for survival and reproduction. Plants introduced from Europe and Asia are not helpful. “Replacing native plant communities with non-native vegetation can devastate native insect

    Bird w berry

    biomass. When plants that share an evolutionary history with insect herbivores are replaced by non-native ornamental or invasive plant species, insect biomass per unit area can be reduced by up to 96%.” (Richard et al. 2019, Tallamy et al. 2020).

Butterflies, moths and other insects lay their eggs on indigenous plants because their leaves are food. Most rely on specific host plants in order to survive and prosper. Hungry birds seek out native plants to find these insects. Nestlings are fed caterpillars almost exclusively because they are soft, easily digested and nutritious.  It has been reported that between 6000-9000 caterpillars are required to raise a single clutch of baby chickadees. Additionally, adult moths are an important food source for many birds including, but not limited to, flycatchers and whippoorwills. So important are moths to the food web that they outnumber butterfly populations 16:1. We need not worry that plants will be defoliated however, because birds reduce this risk by the sheer volume of caterpillars consumed.

Food, shelter and nesting sites go hand in hand. And no plant illustrates this better than our native hawthorns (genus Crateagus). Hawthorns might just be the perfect tree for birds. Not only do hawthorns host 159 species of butterfly and moth caterpillars, but their dense branches keep nests secure during severe storms. Thorned branches add additional protection from predators. Finally, migrating birds returning home in spring will still find some berries to welcome them back.

Many native trees and shrubs have nutritious berries that are high in fats. Migrating songbirds rely on these plants to fuel their migration. Some high-quality berry plants include bayberry (Myrica (Morella) pensylvanica), arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum), gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa), spicebush, (Linderal benzoin) and Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).

I recently read an opinion that opportunistic birds will readily make poor food choices; not unlike the irresistible temptation of a fast-food offering. I do not believe this is true for birds. A study published in Biological Conservation, (2020) shows that, even when exotic fruits are more abundant, “birds usually

Large seed Hawthorn

prefer and seek out native fruits,” Just as pollinators prefer plants they co-evolved with, birds do prefer plants with indigenous fruits, seeds and berries. Birds instinctively know they must choose fruits that contain the fats, carbohydrates and nutrients needed to survive the cold winter months. But when introduced plants from Europe and Asia are all they can find, they have to settle for nutrient poor berries. That is why we need to make better plant choices in our landscapes – adding indigenous plants, trees and shrubs.

There is nothing wrong with supplementing native berry and seed plants with bird feeders when temperatures plummet, especially during snowstorms and in late winter when many seeds and berries are depleted. According to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, nighttime poses a challenge for surviving cold temperatures. Birds can shiver all night and deplete their fat reserves. The next day is crucial for them to replenish these reserves so they can survive the next night. Supplementing with high energy foods like black oil sunflower and suet can make all the difference until the weather moderates and insects and supporting plants emerge.

  1. Water is So Important. Providing water all during the year is critical for birds, especially when no natural water source exists. Birds need water to rehydrate, preen their feathers to remove mites, and for reproduction. A birdbath or fountain with fresh clean water is important, especially when summer temperatures climb. Birds, like all creatures, need to quench their thirst. Water is often inaccessible in

    Bird at bath

    winter, under cover of ice and snow. Providing water for birds is even more critical during cold weather because water helps them align their feathers for insulation and waterproofing. Heated birdbaths work really well. Models that attach to deck railings are most convenient for monitoring and refilling as necessary.

 

Our reward in caring for birds is the thrill of watching our favorite avian flyer, be it cardinal, chickadee, or finch, taking sips or splashing around in a birdbath we provide. And with lots of native plants, trees and shrubs, you can be assured that birds will find your yard attractive. Often said and so very true, “if you plant it, they will come.”

Photos courtesy of Menukatuck Audubon Society, GoBotany, and Holly Kocet.

Japanese Knotweed –An Existential Threat

by Holly Kocet, The Garden Club of Newtown, FGCCT Environmental & Conservation Co-Chair

Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum syn. Fallopia japonica) is native to Asia and is one of the most invasive plants in the world.  An herbaceous perennial and a member of the buckwheat family, knotweed was introduced to North America in the 1870’s for its ornamental appeal and to stabilize streambanks. This plant is an aggressive invader of forest edges, wetlands, stream corridors, and drainage ditches in Connecticut and across the country.

Knotweed has several identifiable and unmistakable characteristics. Emerging in early spring, new growth is

Knotweed Foliage

bright purple with furled, spear-shaped leaves resembling asparagus. The stems of knotweed are bright green in color and flecked with red. Hollow bamboo-like stems can grow to a height of 11 feet. Leaf petioles have a reddish tinge and an obvious zig-zag habit. Leaves are shaped like a garden spade with a straight back and can be up to 6 inches long. Aromatic and finger-like blooms appear in late summer.

How does Japanese Knotweed spread? Knotweed reproduces primarily by vegetative regeneration of rhizomes, (horizontal underground stems) and above-ground crown material. The crowns on a mature knotweed plant can be massive but what’s going on below ground is even more concerning – an extensive network of rhizomes from which many shoots will sprout. Orange in color, rhizomes will snap like a carrot when attempting removal. Even very small fragments of above and below ground plant material can give rise to new plants. Knotweed thrives on disturbance, both by natural means and with human activity. Transportation of soil containing rhizome fragments is a major cause of knotweed spread.

What kind of problems are associated with Japanese Knotweed? While it is not believed knotweed damages structures that are sound, it is opportunistic. If there is a weakness such as a gap or crack in pavement or concrete, knotweed will infiltrate these areas. Damage can occur to pavement, walls, foundations and outbuildings. And, it is easily spread during landscaping and development activities.

Mature stands of Japanese Knotweed are aesthetically displeasing, especially as they accumulate litter along roadsides, parks and open spaces. Substantial in size, knotweed can be a significant sightline hazard for motorists. Eradicating large infestations can be a laborious and expensive. An infestation might devalue a property, or a new home buyer may unwittingly inherit a knotweed problem.

The ecological impact of knotweed is significant. It thrives in a variety of habitats. Once established, it forms large, dense stands, displacing native flora and fauna. It is a serious threat to riparian areas where it can survive severe flooding. Stems can wash into rivers and streams and quickly colonize shores and islands. Knotweed stands can restrict access to riverbanks. The litter that accumulates in knotweed stalks can also suppress native flora, thereby reducing habitat for wildlife.

Knotweed Infestation

What is it about knotweed that makes it so prolific? Well, for one thing, it is not fussy. It grows in a variety of soil types and doesn’t mind poor soil. It is an extremely hardy species. In Japan, it thrives in bare volcanic gravel and lava fields beneath Mount Fuji and even above the tree line. Knotweed is also an extremely active plant. A single stand of knotweed can produce more than 230 shoots. In this way, it forms monocultures, suppressing everything else.

What makes knotweed so difficult to deal with? 1) Rhizome growth is extensive – rhizomes grow laterally up to 7 feet from any visible growth and even farther if rhizomes follow a natural or man-made channel in the ground. 2) Rhizomes can reach depths of 3 yards or more, making removal even more difficult. 3) Knotweed rhizomes can actually remain dormant for up to 20 years.

The most effective control method for Japanese knotweed is to prevent its establishment in the first place – monitoring our yards, borders and roadsides and removing newly established plants before they become established. Proper disposal is important. Knotweed should never be placed in brush piles or town landfills. Green Shoots, a company that specializes in invasive plant control, suggests putting shoots in a black plastic bag in full sun to dry out before disposing as trash.

Japanese Knotweed is on the CT Invasive Plant List. As such, it is “prohibited from importation, movement, sale, purchase, transplanting, cultivation and distribution under CT General Statute 22a-381d.”

The CT Invasive Plant Working Group’s (CIPWG) Invasive Management Calendar cautions that cuttings left on the ground provide opportunity for regeneration and further spread. And a study by Jones et al. 2020, concluded that cutting and mowing doesn’t destroy knotweed. There are “No examples of successful long-term invasive knotweed management using this treatment program.” And because mowing is a very efficient way of spreading knotweed, it is concerning that road crews continue to mow knotweed along our roadways.

There is no question Japanese Knotweed is a serious threat to landowners and the environment. Large stands are difficult to eradicate. However, serious and thoughtful consideration should always be given when considering chemical treatments and their impact(s). That is why seeking the advice of a licensed chemical applicator with experience in the treatment of Japanese Knotweed and with an understanding the plant’s physiology is important. While a homeowner might want to get rid of this plant as soon as possible, it is a mistake to treat a knotweed plant too early when carbohydrates are being sent to new growth in stems and leaves. Any herbicide applied at this time will only cause top-kill and not be carried down to the rhizomes. A study done by Jones et al. 2018 determined that late season chemical applications are most effective in controlling knotweed. Knotweed control specialists agree that treatment is most effective when done in late autumn after flowers have passed but before the first killing frost.

Despite all the negative aspects of Japanese Knotweed, this is an invasive that might be controlled and even eradicated in our towns and cities. Unlike Japanese Barberry and Winged Euonymus (Burning Bush), that have overtaken our forests and wild areas, I do believe there is hope for Japanese Knotweed. But we have to let our representatives know of our concerns. Several state legislators have told me that if they don’t hear from their constituents, they focus their attention on other issues. Legislation is needed to address invasive species in our state and especially for Japanese Knotweed.

The United Kingdom has been dealing with Japanese Knotweed for many years. While it is not against the law to have knotweed on your property in the U.K., homeowners cannot allow knotweed to spread into wild areas or encroach on neighboring properties. Also, mortgage lenders in the U.K. are reluctant to lend on a property where knotweed has been identified. There is no question that knotweed negatively impacts the aesthetic value of a property. It should never not be allowed to encroach on neighboring property.

There are many groups around the state actively battling invasives…land trusts, gardeners, conservation groups.  I would like to take a minute to extend my appreciation to all the garden clubs and individuals who are doing this work in their towns. I would especially like to recognize the West Hartford Garden Club for their work at Spicebush Swamp Park, removing invasive Buckhorn and replacing with native species. I would also like to thank the Westport Garden Club for their work at Grace K. Salmon Park in removing invasives such as the dreaded Tree-of-Heaven and this hellish invader, Japanese Knotweed. Stars All.

Let’s Make Some Noise — About Noise!

by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

In days long past, our neighborhoods were quieter, especially on Sunday. Noisy leaf blowers were non-existent so people raked their leaves. Dads made piles for kids to jump in and leaves found their way to the compost pile eventually. There wasn’t the expectation that every leaf remnant needed to be swept away. It was understood that mulched leaves were free fertilizer.

Things sure have changed. There is no argument that these power tools have made our lives easier but at what cost? Before the advent of these noisy machines, you could hear birds chirping and bees buzzing. Now it’s just a constant din of high-powered mowers, leaf blowers, string trimmers and chain saws.

And these machines have gotten louder. My neighbor’s Xero Turn mower sounds like a Boeing 727 taking off. Most lawn care companies use these machines too because they are fast and easily maneuverable around obstacles like trees and gardens. Because these mowers turn on a dime, the operator can really fly, effectively tearing the turf in the process, leaving scars resembling crop circles.

Gasoline-powered leaf blowers also have serious downfalls, not least of which is noise pollution, which can lead to permanent hearing loss. Popular commercial blowers emit low frequency noise that exceeds 100 decibels. Low frequency noise carries over long distances and even permeates structures. According to the CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention), hearing loss occurs with prolonged exposure to 85 decibels.

High-power blowers and mowers also can cause respiratory harm when they stir up clouds of dust that contain pollen, mold, animal feces, heavy metals and chemicals from pesticides. And when gasoline and oil are mixed in these devices, they emit carbon monoxide and cancer-causing particulate matter inhaled by the operator and others in close proximity.

Environmental Harm. A recent study showed that operating a two-stroke gasoline blower for 30 minutes emits as many hydrocarbons as a Ford F-150 driving from Texas to Alaska. And while automobiles are regulated for carbon emissions, there are no regulations for any of these small off-road engines.

Blowing Leaves Kills Beneficial Insects. “The fallen leaf layer is actually really important wildlife habitat,” according to David Mizejewski, a naturalist with the National Wildlife Federation. “All sorts of creatures rely on [leaf cover] for their survival as a place where they can find food and cover, and in many cases even complete their life cycle.” This is true for native bees, butterflies, moths, fireflies and other beneficial insects that overwinter as adults, larvae or eggs. For example, a bumble bee queen overwinters all alone in a very shallow burrow, so leaf cover is critical for her survival. Moths and their caterpillars need protection because they are a hugely important food source for birds and other wildlife species. Wonder why firefly numbers aren’t what they used to be? In addition to loss of habitat and pesticides, we’re also blowing firefly larvae to smithereens!

It also makes good sense to leave the leaves in beds and gardens over winter to protect plant roots. Blowing leaves out of gardens is not recommended. Leaf cover protects plants from desiccation that occurs over winter when moisture is lacking as well as from the freezing and thawing that occurs in late winter. Leaves are also rich in nutrients, not treated with dyes as are commercial mulches, and they’re free!

Providing “soft landings” around trees is something people are catching onto for protecting beneficial insects. As E.O. Wilson put it, they are “the little things that run the world.” Planting under trees with perennials, ground covers and ferns and allowing leaves to fall where they may is ideal. Not only is this cover helpful to beneficial critters but the planted area acts as a buffer, protecting tree trunks from the overzealous weed-whacking that could damage trees. No need for mulch. Leaves not only offer protection but add nutrients that ensure healthy and beautiful plants. And soft landing areas also save time (and money) when most of us would rather being doing just about anything else than cleaning up leaves this time of year.

“Leave the Leaves” has become a popular slogan. Not to say heavy layers of leaves must be left on lawn areas. But leaves are nutrient-rich so leaving some mulched leaves will benefit the lawn. Small leaves like maples will shrivel as they dry and are easily reduced by mower mulching. Of course, when leaves are heavier, a mower bagger makes sense. Bagged contents can then be added to plant beds for added protection or placed in a designated compost area to create rich garden soil. We want to avoid leaf blowers when we can.

These days, we are asked to rethink our garden practices, especially for large manicured lawns that require huge inputs of fertilizers, chemicals and water. These are dead zones for any kind of wildlife and significant polluters of our streams and aquifers. Lawn chemical manufacturers effectively lure landowners with their promise of a healthy green lawn. In truth, their products are neither healthy or “green.” Reducing lawn areas is a healthier solution. And hopefully this will reduce the use of deafening leaf blowers that contribute to polluting our air and spoiling our communities.

Kudos to the Town of Westport for their ordinance, approved in January, limiting the use of gas-powered backpack and handheld leaf blowers. The ordinance specifies hours during which both gas-powered and electric-powered leaf blowers can be used. It further prohibits the use of these gas-powered blowers on any state and federal holiday and even prohibits their use on Sundays! Also, beginning in May 2024, residents may not use gas-powered hand-held or backpack blowers during summer months (May 15 – Oct. 15). While Westport’s ordinance doesn’t cover the large blower machines or restrict fall cleanup activity, it is certainly a step in the right direction and the only town thus far to address leaf blowers as a serious health concern.

There is no question we would be far better off without the disturbance caused by these high-powered machines. Our songbirds and other wildlife would not be subjected to noise that disturbs and frightens them. We would preserve overwintering beneficial insects. Even our pets, frightened by loud noises, would be happier. And our neighborhoods would be quieter, more peaceful and healthier places to live.

Protecting Our Watersheds, Our Aquifers, Our Water and Livelihoods

by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

A watershed is an area of land through which rainwater drains above or below ground to a common low point, be it a stream, river, lake, or ocean. Since all land is part of a watershed, we all live on a watershed. Therefore, the actions we take on our land can impact (positively or negatively) the quality of water that flows from our watershed. And, as water flows through this system, the impacts are cumulative. This means that everything one does on their property can impact the water that flows to a neighbor downstream. Likewise, everything landowners do above you will impact the quality and quantity of water flowing through your land.

Most of Connecticut’s rivers eventually flow into Long Island Sound. According to Save the Sound, nitrogen is the primary pollutant threatening the Sound. Sources of nitrogen include waste treatment plants, septic systems, burning fossil fuels, and fertilizers used on lawns and crops. Excess nitrogen robs the waters of oxygen, a serious concern for fish, lobster and other aquatic animals that need oxygenated water to breath. High nitrogen levels also lead to harmful algae blooms which cause fish die-offs and destroy coastal marshes. Marshes are not only important to many wildlife species but they help protect our coastal communities from flooding during storms.

Within watersheds are our aquifers. These underground areas are empty spaces in rock, sand or gravel. They are natural holding tanks and the source of the water for both wells and a public water supply. Aquifers are recharged when water is absorbed and collected from permeable land surfaces. It’s easy to take our water for granted. When we turn on a faucet, our expectation is for plenty of fresh water. But with more and more land developed, there is also increased demand on our aquifers. Protecting and preserving this precious water source is of highest priority.

Our fresh water ponds and lakes are also impacted by high nutrient loads from detergents and lawn chemicals. Easily dissolved and held in solution by water, these substances impact all forms of life. Native bunch grasses, plants, and trees that grow naturally along ponds, lakes, and streams, trap and filter runoff before entering the water. But where lawn is maintained to water’s edge, there is no natural buffer so fertilizers and lawn chemicals find their way in. Creating buffers with native plantings, (a.k.a. riparian buffers), are effective in filtering pollutants. Buffers also keep the waters cool, reduce bank erosion and prevent silt from muddying the waters. Buffering can also be effective in preventing large gatherings of geese. Fearing predators, geese won’t walk through high grasses and plants to access water after grazing. Their droppings and those from other animal grazers are filtered by this buffer. This is extremely important because E-coli bacteria in water is a serious health risk. It has been traced to animal feces as well as leaking septic and sewer systems.

I am stunned by how many homeowners maintain huge lawn areas, which often means the use of pesticides including insecticides, fungicides and herbicides (known to be hazardous to children, pets and the environment), as well as chemical fertilizers. A staggering 67 million pounds of pesticides are used on lawns each year. And, according to the EPA, as much as 60% of nitrogen used to fertilize lawns ends up in surface and groundwater. Pesticides and fertilizers are major contributors to decline in water quality for streams, rivers, and well water.

Road salt, while necessary for public safety, finds its way into the aquifer and well water. Each winter, it is estimated that more than 20 million metric tons of salt are poured on U.S. roads – Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies, New York. High salt levels are already found in waters of some CT locations.

Another serious health risk is Polyfluroralkyl substances (PFAS). Also known as “forever chemicals”, PFAS compounds do not readily break down. They accumulate in the body and are associated with certain cancers prompting the EPA to set new standards for drinking water under the Clean Water Act. Most recently brought

to public attention when used in firefighting foams, PFAS are also found in non-stick cookware, stainproof carpets and fertilizers.

Wetlands and swamps while considered by some to be waste areas, nothing could be farther from the truth. They are hugely important for recharging our aquifers. As water demands increase, we need to be preserving wetlands, not diminishing them, and we need to keep them free from pollution and waste. Wetlands and swamps should never be filled in or used as dump sites. Not only are wetland areas important habitat for many birds and mammals, they too are critical for storm flood control.

Ways to protect our watershed

There is much that can be done to protect our watersheds and aquifers. Towns and cities need requirements for development plans that provide the lowest negative impact on the environment to ensure a stable and healthy water supply. Designs should limit impervious surfaces that prevent water absorption needed for recharging aquifers. And better solutions need to be found for the tons of salt spread on our roadways each year, threatening to contaminate our wells.

Individually, homeowners need to rethink their lawn practices and the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides that are often applied where no problem actually exists. Chemical companies are pretty good at promoting their products and we consumers make them very rich. I especially love the 4-step programs offered by lawn companies that only serve to make lawns more chemical and water dependent, contaminating our water sources in the process. It bears repeating that pesticides and fertilizers contribute to the decline of water quality in a major way. Other important considerations:

  • Septic systems are generally out of sight, out of mind, however they need to be properly maintained.

If a home is not on a town/city sewer line, a septic tank should be pumped every 3-5 years.

  • Our wetlands need to be respected, preserved and protected for the valuable benefits they provide.
  • Ponds, lakes, streams, wells and water sources need to be buffered against runoff containing harmful chemicals, fertilizers and other contaminants.

The best time to protect our watersheds is while our water supply is still healthy. Preserving the quality of our aquifers and their capacity to recharge will ensure a safe clean and an abundant water supply for years to come.

Artificial Light - A Cause for Concern

by Holly Kocet, Garden Club of Newtown & Co-Chair, FGCCT Conservation Committee

Less than 100 years ago, a person could look up into the night sky and see thousands of bright stars. Today, widespread and ever-increasing artificial light makes this impossible in many places across the globe. This excessive use of artificial light is light pollution. Just as with pollution of our water and air, light pollution can have serious environmental consequences for humans, wildlife and even our climate.

Plants and animals depend on the Earth’s daily cycle of light and dark. For animals, this is important for life-sustaining behaviors such as reproduction, sleep, and protection from predators. There is scientific evidence that artificial light can have deadly effects on many creatures from hummingbirds to wallabies. Birds that migrate at night are navigating by moonlight and starlight. Each year, artificial light is responsible for millions of deadly bird collisions with buildings and towers. Monarch butterflies also rely on darkness. This is when they process proteins that are key to their internal compass that points the way towards their wintering grounds and return. Researchers found that butterflies roosting near porch or streetlights are disoriented the next day. Amphibians like frogs and toads are nighttime breeders so lights interfere with reproduction thus reducing populations. Sea turtle hatchlings must get from the beach to the sea. They can only find their way by detecting the bright horizon over the ocean. Artificial lights draw them away from the water and each year millions die in this way.

This time of year, we are hopeful for witnessing fireflies blinking along woodland edges and in moist meadows as we did in our youth. But more and more fireflies are disappearing. Most researchers believe loss of habitat due to increased housing and commercial development is a main factor. Open fields and forests are being destroyed. Increased activity along waterways is also detrimental to these valuable critters whose larvae are hugely beneficial for controlling snails and slugs. There is no question pesticides are having a detrimental effect on all invertebrate species, especially fireflies. Mosquito spraying, for example, is totally ineffective for mosquito control but does kill fireflies and many other beneficial insects.

And, it should come to no surprise that artificial light is extremely harmful to fireflies who need to communicate with one another to find mates. Lights from homes, cars, businesses and streetlights, make it difficult for fireflies to signal each other, resulting in fewer larvae born the following season.

Much of our outdoor night lighting is inefficient and, in many cases, unnecessary. Artificial lighting is often overly bright and improperly shielded. Light spills into the night sky instead of focusing on objects for which the light is intended. According to a 2016 study, 80% of the world’s population lives under sky glow which is an artificial brightening of the sky. These polluted skies are of world-wide concern.

But unlike other forms of pollution, light pollution can be reversible if we take the appropriate steps.  Each one of us can make a difference. The International Dark-Sky Association indicates Five Lighting Principles for Responsible Outdoor Lighting.

  1. Use light only if it is needed. Consider how the light will impact wildlife and their habitats.
  2. Direct light so it falls only where it is needed. Shield lighting to point downward and so it does not spill     beyond the targeted area.
  3. Light should be no brighter than necessary. Use only the lowest light level needed.

4. Use light only when it is necessary. Timers or motion detectors ensure light is available as needed.

  1. Use warmer color lights where possible. Limit the amount of shorter wavelength (blue-violet) light.

Lights Out Connecticut, Lightsoutct.org, also suggests keeping blinds and shades drawn to keep light inside, especially on upper floors and when working at night.

Good news!  On June 27th, Governor Lamont signed Substitute House Bill No. 6607, Public Act No. 23-143 – An Act Concerning the Nighttime Lighting of State-owned Buildings at Certain Times for the Protection of Birds – requiring state-owned and leased buildings to turn off nonessential outdoor lighting during peak avian migration periods in order to assist in preventing birds from flying into the sides of such buildings. Nonessential outdoor lighting shall be turned off between the hours of eleven o’clock p.m. and six o’clock a.m.

There’s much more to do. It is important for our Garden Clubs to continue our efforts as leaders in our communities on all environmental and conservation issues.  Members are highly qualified with vast experience as gardeners, master gardeners, birders, activists and educators. The public isn’t always aware of the negative impacts of practices such as excessive use of artificial lights. As ambassadors, we can help bring awareness to this growing problem and inspire more people to take necessary steps to protect our natural night sky that will benefit us and the wildlife with whom we share this world. For more information, visit www.DarkSky.org